Field notes

Written stops from the team on the road. Notes, not videos.

• Hidden rooftops and miradouros

  Alfama to the castle · Morning

  Dawn over Santa Luzia, tiled stairwells, and a bica before the day gets loud.

• Tram 28 without the queue

  Campo de Ourique · A ride

  Where the ride stays a ride, not a waiting room.

• How to order a bica

  A neighbourhood counter · A morning

  Bica, pingado, or galao — the morning order, said the way a Lisboeta says it.

• Sintra before the coaches

  Quinta da Regaleira · First light

  The initiation well at first light, and how to leave before the buses fill the lane.

• The edge of the continent

  Cabo da Roca · A day

  Cascais to the westernmost cliff in mainland Europe, wind included.

• Pastel, properly

  A bakery that is not the obvious one · A stop

  Warm custard, cinnamon, and the difference between a queue and a ritual.